Ricky Moore is famous for seafood cookery, but he can make all kinds of good stuff. He describes this comforting gratin (read: top-notch casserole) as an excellent example of the stellar “church lady delicious” food of his youth, a dish that he now prepares for his own family table. He encourages us to take our time with each step, and let the flavors develop. We’ll be rewarded with a big dish of rice and vegetables (and, oh my, that golden brown cracker crust on top!) that makes a great side dish or a meatless entrée.
Hint: I love how he cooks the rice in a big pot of water like pasta. It’s less tedious than the usual closed pot/don’t peek method, and it’s a cinch to test when it’s done.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Stir in the rice, reduce the heat and let cook at a low boil until the rice is al dente, about 15 minutes. Drain the rice, and reserve the cooking water.
Meanwhile, shred the unpeeled squash on the large holes of a box grater or with the shredding disk of a food processor. Transfer into a mesh sieve sitting inside a large bowl, toss with 2 teaspoons salt and let stand at room temperature to drain for 5 minutes. Working with a small handful at a time, squeeze the remaining moisture from the squash, collecting the liquid in a 2-cup measuring cup. Add enough of the reserved rice cooking water to total 2 cups of liquid. Discard any remaining rice cooking water.
Warm 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large, oven-proof skillet over medium-high heat. Stir in the onion and a small pinch of salt, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Do not let the onion brown.
Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute.
Stir in the drained squash. Cook until the squash is lightly caramelized, about 10 minutes, stirring often to loosen the browned glaze from the bottom of the pan. The squash will reduce considerably as it cooks.
Sprinkle the flour over the squash, and stir to coat. Add 1 cup of the reserved liquid and stir well. Cook until the flour no longer tastes raw, and the mixture thickens to the consistency of pudding.
Stir in the rice. Taste for seasoning. Smooth the top and drizzle with enough of the remaining liquid to make the gratin moist but not soupy. You probably won’t need it all.
Sprinkle the crackers crumbs over the top, followed by the Parmesan. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil.
Bake until the mixture is set and the top is golden brown, about 25 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes. Just before serving, sprinkle the pepper, parsley and lemon zest over the top and serve warm.
Sheri Castle joins chef Ricky Moore as he cooks a delicious rice and squash gratin.
Chef Ricky Moore is a James Beard Foundation winner for “Best Chef Southeast” and a self-professed North Carolina seafood evangelist. Moore opened the popular Saltbox Seafood Joint in 2012 in Durham, NC, taking inspiration from his native Eastern Carolina coast and its traditional roadside fish shacks. Chef Moore debuted the Saltbox Seafood Joint Cookbook in 2019, with 60 recipes celebrating his coastal culinary heritage.
Early in his career, Moore served as a cook in the US Army and later graduated from the esteemed Culinary Institute of America. After kitchen stints in some of the world’s most prestigious kitchens from Washington, D.C. to Chicago, Moore competed against Chef Michael Symon on “Iron Chef America.”
Today, Moore continues to fulfill his lifelong dream as an entrepreneur, professional and preserver of North Carolina fisherman and foodways, and is a member of the NC Oyster Trail and on the Advisory Board for the NC Sea Grant.
Sheri Castle, award-winning food writer and cooking teacher, is known for melding culinary expertise, storytelling and humor, so she can tell a tale while making a memorable meal. Her creative, well-crafted recipes and practical advice inspire people to cook with confidence and enthusiasm. She's written a tall stack of cookbooks and her work appears in dozens of magazines. In 2019, the Southern Foodways Alliance named Sheri among Twenty Living Legends of Southern Food, calling her The Storyteller.
Sheri says that she's fueled by great ingredients and the endless pursuit of intriguing stories, usually about the role that food plays in our lives, families, communities and culture.
When she steps away from the kitchen or a local farm, Sheri enjoys spending quiet time at her home near Chapel Hill. She hails from the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina.
In each episode of "The Key Ingredient," Sheri Castle features one local ingredient, tracing its journey from source to kitchen. The renowned food writer and cooking teacher will introduce us to local farmers, growers, fisherman and chefs and share approachable home cooking recipes and tips. Join Sheri & friends to learn the stories behind some of North Carolina's most beloved ingredients.